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The S6S420G 6-speed manual transmission is quite a stout gearbox, but it all comes down to how it has been driven and maintained throughout its life. I've seen them run over 700,000 miles without any more service than fluid changes, and I have also seen failure before 100,000 miles. A $20,000 E39 M5 will immediately need $5-10k to sort out the driveline, engine, and suspension. A total of $30k should be able to build a good example, but cosmetic repairs could easily exceed that budget depending on the quality vehicle selected.

It is not required at all, this would just eliminate the rattle during cold starts. The rattle won't hurt anything though.

This cable adjusts a valve on the heater core to direct either relatively warmer or cooler air to the dash vents compared to the lower ones.

@@E39Sourcethank you!

Yes, lumbar works fine on both seats. I've never seen it fail on an E39 seat.

I've never seen one fail. Try a different switch, or verify that its plugged in?

I would swap in another known-working navigation computer to see if it brings the display back. If not, I would upgrade to a 16:9 display.

@@E39Source Thanks a lot for your answer. will try that. in my explanation above I forgot to mention when I disconnected the gps module and connected again the battery was not disconnected 😕. Also tried to plug in directly to the tv/video module and got nothing (all of this with the battery connected) . All the buttons around the display light up at night when I turn the car lights on . Likely these 3 modules fried?

@@faober3594 I have removed and installed these components with the battery still connected hundreds of times, all without issues. But on some early firmware versions, it is possible to brick the navigation computer if it's unplugged at a particular point before it sleeps. That could be what happened to you.

@@E39Source Thank you very much . will order a mk4 and report back.

That just means the fan wasn't tight on the water pump. If your fan blades and/or clutch are over 10 years, they need to be replaced.

The key is going to be the age. If the fan blades are over 10 years old, they should be replaced. The production date is stamped on one of the blades.

I like ECS Tuning for Genuine BMW and original equipment supplier parts: bit.ly/2MPZSB3

ruclips.net/video/0FgLyFc-EgM/видео.html

@@E39Source Thank you this gave better context. Seeing that you already did the front passenger door, the 3 questions I have are, 1. Is there a chance my window breaks when I pull the panel off? 2. My main concern, is there a chance that I could set off the airbag while removing the panel even if my battery is off? I put the battery on again to put down the window and then seen an airbag warning light so I didn’t go back to working on it. I don’t want it to explode in my face lol. 3. Will taking off the panel break any of the wiring? Thanks in advance if you’re able to help, this is my first car repair so I’m not trying to mess up that bad.

@@1haitian1 You'd have to hit the window with something pretty hard for it to break. You can never be too careful with airbags. Disconnect the vehicle's battery first, handle it with extreme care, and fully discharge yourself of any static electricity before handling or evening the airbag or its electrical connector. If the battery is plugged in without the airbag installed, it'll write a fault code to the airbag module that then needs to be reset after everything is back together. The wiring should not be affected if the panel is properly (carefully) removed.

You can clear the code from the vehicle with any BMW-compatible scanner tool. I sometimes use the Carly (phone app/dongle), but prefer BMW ISTA on the E6x platform cars. ISTA is more of a dealership/shop level tool, Carly is geared for at-home / DIY use.

Only the passenger seat has an occupancy sensor. If the car is being drive, it's safe to assume the driver's seat is occupied.

@@E39Source Thank you so much for clarifying it for me 👍

@@E39Source Can I ask you a quick question? I have fitted both the airbag and seat belt emulators to the passenger seat. I have the yellow plug under each seat. I fitted he red and black wire of the seat belt emulator bypass module to the plug on the passenger seat for the bypass. My drivers seat also has the yellow plug with red and black wire plug identical to passenger side. So can I fit a seat belt simulator module also to the drivers seat aswell? If not why? Thank you

@@thecarguychannel There is no need to install the kit on the driver's seat. If the car is being driven, the airbag module assumes that a driver is present in the seat. There is no occupancy sensor on the driver's seat.

As far as I know, all E39s use a fan in the DME box.

The door lock actuator will only work if the door module is plugged in. On the front driver's door, the module is the window switch panel. Is that plugged in?

@@E39Source yes it’s plug in but but seems like the tumbler is Jammed or the actual mechanism . I can see movement of the tab that indicates when it’s lock but it doesn’t stay down ..

The vendor removed the product from the website, but does still have some left in stock. You can call them and he'll sell you one.

Yeah, I had a feeling that happened. Who is the company and what’s the part number?

@@jpzzze Please refer to this writeup: www.e39source.com/blog/automatic-headlight-retrofit/

Yes I believe it does.

The 540i's automatic transmission would bolt up the S62, but I don't think it would handle the additional power and torque reliably. Additionally, the M5 was never offered with any automatic gearboxes, so the coding/programming would require a lot of custom software which may not be feasible. The E39 540i M-Tech (2003 only) may be a better option for you, as those are readily available with the automatic.

Thanks! I think if you've got those fuses in your glovebox fuse panel, you're probably covered for the right side of the diagram. If you do the left side and the seats don't work, you may want to go through the right side of the diagram to see whats missing.

Checked and unfortunately mine doesn’t have fuse 32 or 45. proper wiring harness is ordered now. But couldn’t find any decent tutorial for the right side of the diagram besides the forum entry from BlkzhgWoG. Any tip from you where to look for that part of the job?

@@YannikSchreckenberger I'd just supplement the diagram with resources from BMW TIS and work through it wire by wire.

This is a good point. Window switch must be plugged in to test the actuator (and door shut). For the passenger's door, you need the black module with three connectors plugged in (and door shut).

Do you know why the driver door won’t lock but the actuator is locking . It sounds like it’s jammed . When I’m locking with the key I can’t turn to the left to lock but I can unlock and roll the window down turning to the right . I’ve heard someone said the tumbler and the door mechanism isn’t in the right positing . It’s like it’s 90 degree off from the tumbler and the actual mechanism

@@slowazbmwkilla3073 I've never experienced that... but it'd be worth a try to rotate the + piece 90°.

Which way 90 degree to the left or right

@@slowazbmwkilla3073 Either/both, whatever works.

These are unbranded and there are no part numbers either. I just search Ebay for "E39 LED halo 6,000k 10w" and buy some that are already in the US.

You can use 51118174185 where the diffuser meets the bumper at the bottom. For the sides, you'll need small self-tapping screws. The factory ones were a 7mm head. BMW never published the part numbers for this hardware, so I usually go through my spare fasteners until I find parts that fit if the original ones were missing.

I have recently heard this, definitely a bummer. I plan to reproduce this harness, but our shop is absolutely slammed with work right now and this is a lower priority. On E39s that came with PDC from factory, these wires are built into the primary vehicle harness, so extracting them would be quite time consuming- but possible. Keep an eye on E39Source's online store for when I make the reproduction available.